HAWAII 2009
TRIP REPORT
March 29 – April 10, 2009
LEADERS: Gina Nichol, Steve Bird, and David Kuhn
Day 1 Sunday, March 29, 2009
Most everyone arrived at least one day before the tour so they could enjoy a day to recover from the long journey to Hawaii. Excited to be in a new and exotic place, all of us took advantage of the extra day in Oahu enjoying a variety of activities including a helicopter ride, visits to historic Pearl Harbor, the Zoo and the Aquarium, and exploring the Waikiki harbor. Our hotel overlooked the waterfront with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. At 6 o’clock in the evening we all met for the official beginning of the tour. Our guide David Kuhn had flown in from Kauai early and already scouted some birding areas on Oahu. After introductions and a brief orientation, we went out for a lovely dinner.
Day 1 Sunday, March 29, 2009
Most everyone arrived at least one day before the tour so they could enjoy a day to recover from the long journey to Hawaii. Excited to be in a new and exotic place, all of us took advantage of the extra day in Oahu enjoying a variety of activities including a helicopter ride, visits to historic Pearl Harbor, the Zoo and the Aquarium, and exploring the Waikiki harbor. Our hotel overlooked the waterfront with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. At 6 o’clock in the evening we all met for the official beginning of the tour. Our guide David Kuhn had flown in from Kauai early and already scouted some birding areas on Oahu. After introductions and a brief orientation, we went out for a lovely dinner.
Day 2 Monday, March 30, 2009
We had an early breakfast this morning and as the sun rose over Oahu we left the hotel for our first look for Hawaii’s birds in the hills above Honolulu. We were already very familiar with the common birds having seen many Zebra Doves, Spotted Doves, and Common Mynas on our pre-tour day.
Our first Pacific Golden Plovers were seen along the road out of town and some of them were beginning to take on their handsome breeding plumage. The numerous Red Junglefowl were of questionable origin throughout the tour. An Oahu Amakihi was calling, but remained elusive. Other introduced species were seen including Red-vented and Red-whiskered Bulbul, Japanese White-eye, House Finch, and Red-billed Leothrix. David heard the call of an Amakihi further up the hill so we moved up and surveyed the trees. Eventually a female flew into a tree right above us and showed well – our first authentic Hawaiian bird! From here we drove to another residential area and walked a woodland trail in search of the Oahu Elepaio. David’s sharp ears heard a call and the bird came in close.
We had an early breakfast this morning and as the sun rose over Oahu we left the hotel for our first look for Hawaii’s birds in the hills above Honolulu. We were already very familiar with the common birds having seen many Zebra Doves, Spotted Doves, and Common Mynas on our pre-tour day.
Elepaio
We drove out toward the southeast coast of Oahu, where we saw Great Frigatebird, White-tailed Tropicbirds, a distant Fairy Tern, Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Red-footed Boobies, Sooty Terns, Wedge-tailed Shearwater and our first Brown Noddies. Next came a Cattle Egret and the sighting of a Brown Booby. On the shoreline side of the bigger island there were four endemic Hawaiian Monk Seals hauled out on the sand.
We continued driving to the northeast coast, stopping at Laie Point., where more Brown Noddies were passing in front of a jetty and we enjoyed good views of two Humpback Whales just offshore. Further on up the coast, we walked to an scrubby area behind sand dunes where our first Bristle-thighed Curlews were seen, with Ruddy Turnstones and more Pacific Golden Plovers. A little further, some ponds held Hawaiian Coot, Common Moorhen, Hawaiian Stilt, Northern Pintail, several more Bristle-thighed Curlews, and a Black-crowned Night Heron.
We continued driving to the northeast coast, stopping at Laie Point., where more Brown Noddies were passing in front of a jetty and we enjoyed good views of two Humpback Whales just offshore. Further on up the coast, we walked to an scrubby area behind sand dunes where our first Bristle-thighed Curlews were seen, with Ruddy Turnstones and more Pacific Golden Plovers. A little further, some ponds held Hawaiian Coot, Common Moorhen, Hawaiian Stilt, Northern Pintail, several more Bristle-thighed Curlews, and a Black-crowned Night Heron.
Day 3 Tuesday, March 31, 2009
After breakfast, we spent our last hour on Oahu exploring Kapiolani Park. David and Keith had found a nesting Fairy Tern there and we went to see this beautiful bird perched delicately on a branch. Other birds included Rose-ringed Parakeet, Common Waxbill, Spotted and Zebra Doves, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-crested Cardinal, Java Sparrow and a Grey Francolin that was heard calling behind a tennis court.
Later in the morning we flew to the Big Island of Hawaii and headed up to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. On the way, our first Hawaiian Hawk was seen flying above the road. As we reached the visitor center, we found our first Apapanes, then ventured over to the historic Volcano House and to enjoy the view of the 2 mile long, 2.5-mile wide Kilauea Caldera. As we worked our way back toward the car park, the first Common/Hawaii Amakihi showed briefly.
After breakfast, we spent our last hour on Oahu exploring Kapiolani Park. David and Keith had found a nesting Fairy Tern there and we went to see this beautiful bird perched delicately on a branch. Other birds included Rose-ringed Parakeet, Common Waxbill, Spotted and Zebra Doves, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-crested Cardinal, Java Sparrow and a Grey Francolin that was heard calling behind a tennis court.
Apapane
Later in the morning we flew to the Big Island of Hawaii and headed up to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. On the way, our first Hawaiian Hawk was seen flying above the road. As we reached the visitor center, we found our first Apapanes, then ventured over to the historic Volcano House and to enjoy the view of the 2 mile long, 2.5-mile wide Kilauea Caldera. As we worked our way back toward the car park, the first Common/Hawaii Amakihi showed briefly.
After exploring more of this unique area, we headed back toward Hilo in the rain. A Hawaiian Hawk perched on a palm tree caused us to turned around and go back to get a better view.
Day 4 Wednesday, April 1, 2009
We were up early to search for some of Big Island’s endemic and endangered bird species. Our first destination was shrouded in thick cloud and heavy rain, so we continued to the leeward side of the island where the weather was dry and sunny. Along the road, was saw a Barn Owl, California Quail and several Erckel’s Francolins. A Japanese
Quail glided down the hillside and House Finch and Eurasian Skylark were common.
We were looking for the endangered Palila, a cryptically-coloured species of Hawaiian honeycreeper, but most of us
really didn’t get satisfactory views before the one we found dropped out of the tree and away. We then set off on a trail where we soon came across many Hawaii Amakihis, with both males and females showing well. At last we found a stunning male Palila, allowing us all to get good scope views of it. An area near a fence held a pair of the volcano race of Hawaiian Elepaio and, as we drove downhill, we saw bird of the endemic race of Short-eared Owl.
It was still raining, but we wrapped up in rain gear and took the trail into one of the pockets of unique tropical forest that surround the slopes of Mauna Kea (White Mountain). We soon found our first obliging I’iwi, plus Apapanes, Hawaiian Elepaio (Mauna Kea race), and many Hawaiian Amakihis. Some of us were lucky to see a showy Oma’o, an endemic thrush species. Eventually an Akiapola’au was found, but it was silhouetted against the pale rainy sky.
We were up early to search for some of Big Island’s endemic and endangered bird species. Our first destination was shrouded in thick cloud and heavy rain, so we continued to the leeward side of the island where the weather was dry and sunny. Along the road, was saw a Barn Owl, California Quail and several Erckel’s Francolins. A Japanese
Quail glided down the hillside and House Finch and Eurasian Skylark were common.
We were looking for the endangered Palila, a cryptically-coloured species of Hawaiian honeycreeper, but most of us
really didn’t get satisfactory views before the one we found dropped out of the tree and away. We then set off on a trail where we soon came across many Hawaii Amakihis, with both males and females showing well. At last we found a stunning male Palila, allowing us all to get good scope views of it. An area near a fence held a pair of the volcano race of Hawaiian Elepaio and, as we drove downhill, we saw bird of the endemic race of Short-eared Owl.
It was still raining, but we wrapped up in rain gear and took the trail into one of the pockets of unique tropical forest that surround the slopes of Mauna Kea (White Mountain). We soon found our first obliging I’iwi, plus Apapanes, Hawaiian Elepaio (Mauna Kea race), and many Hawaiian Amakihis. Some of us were lucky to see a showy Oma’o, an endemic thrush species. Eventually an Akiapola’au was found, but it was silhouetted against the pale rainy sky.
Day 5 Thursday, April 2, 2009
We set out early to explore the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge. As we approached the grassy parking field a pair of Kalij Pheasants moved off the grass and up the tract behind us.
As we descended a hill, we soon spotted a pair of Akepas feeding. including a beautiful tangerine-orange male. Further on, we all got good views of a Hawaiian Creeper. On the way back, an Oma’o (Hawaiian Thrush) flew past us and perched atop a tree in the open.
We made our way back to a shelter where we ate our lunch and watched several birds actively feeding, including I’iwi, Apapane, Japanese White-eye, and Hawaii Amakihi. After lunch, we walked back down the trail, seeing numerous Apapanes, I’iwis, Hawaii Amakihis and another Oma’o. We drove back out of the reserve in light rain and had great views of a perched Hawaiian Hawk on the
way out.
We set out early to explore the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge. As we approached the grassy parking field a pair of Kalij Pheasants moved off the grass and up the tract behind us.
Male Akepa
As we descended a hill, we soon spotted a pair of Akepas feeding. including a beautiful tangerine-orange male. Further on, we all got good views of a Hawaiian Creeper. On the way back, an Oma’o (Hawaiian Thrush) flew past us and perched atop a tree in the open.
We made our way back to a shelter where we ate our lunch and watched several birds actively feeding, including I’iwi, Apapane, Japanese White-eye, and Hawaii Amakihi. After lunch, we walked back down the trail, seeing numerous Apapanes, I’iwis, Hawaii Amakihis and another Oma’o. We drove back out of the reserve in light rain and had great views of a perched Hawaiian Hawk on the
way out.
Day 6 Friday, April 3, 2009
Some of us took the opportunity to relax and spend some time exploring Hilo while a few stalwarts went back to get better views of the rare Akiapola’au. Once again, a misty rain was falling. We searched for several hours without a glimpse or a call of our target but had great views of Hawaii Amakihi, Oma’o, Apapane, Hawaii Elepaio and I’iwi. In the afternoon, Steve was on a stunning male Akiapola’au and giving directions, but the bird flew off quickly. After nearly an hour with no luck, once again the call was heard. This time, we got on a female Akiapola’au foraging in some moss on a high branch. The bird showed well and when it called we could see the details of its unique bill. Our patience and perseverance had paid off.
Some of us took the opportunity to relax and spend some time exploring Hilo while a few stalwarts went back to get better views of the rare Akiapola’au. Once again, a misty rain was falling. We searched for several hours without a glimpse or a call of our target but had great views of Hawaii Amakihi, Oma’o, Apapane, Hawaii Elepaio and I’iwi. In the afternoon, Steve was on a stunning male Akiapola’au and giving directions, but the bird flew off quickly. After nearly an hour with no luck, once again the call was heard. This time, we got on a female Akiapola’au foraging in some moss on a high branch. The bird showed well and when it called we could see the details of its unique bill. Our patience and perseverance had paid off.
Day 7 Saturday, April 4, 2009
After breakfast, we checked the coast near our hotel and found Ruddy Turnstone , Cattle Egret, Gadwall, Wandering Tattler, Mallard, Northern Pintail, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Hawaiian Coot, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Northern Shoveler, and Pacific Golden Plover.
From here we went to the airport and flew to Maui, the second largest Hawaiian Island. Later in the afternoon, we drove the scenic road into Haleakala National Park, and along the road to the summit, touted as the steepest paved road on the planet. At the top, at 10,000 feet, the landscape was unearthly and dotted with a native Silversword plants. In a few minutes, we spotted some rare and endangered HawaiianPetrel, flying over the lava hills. Normally they stay out at sea except when they come to nest in burrows along the Haleakala Crater.
After breakfast, we checked the coast near our hotel and found Ruddy Turnstone , Cattle Egret, Gadwall, Wandering Tattler, Mallard, Northern Pintail, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Hawaiian Coot, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Northern Shoveler, and Pacific Golden Plover.
Hawaiian Coot
From here we went to the airport and flew to Maui, the second largest Hawaiian Island. Later in the afternoon, we drove the scenic road into Haleakala National Park, and along the road to the summit, touted as the steepest paved road on the planet. At the top, at 10,000 feet, the landscape was unearthly and dotted with a native Silversword plants. In a few minutes, we spotted some rare and endangered HawaiianPetrel, flying over the lava hills. Normally they stay out at sea except when they come to nest in burrows along the Haleakala Crater.
Some of the birds started coming close and a few flew right over our heads! We witnessed courtship flights and could hear the birds calling as the sun set in the distance. In all, we saw at least twelve of these remarkable birds and it was a highlight of the trip!
Day 8 Sunday, April 5, 2009
We headed up the long winding road to the Haleakala National Park entrance gate where two Nenes were showing well next to the road. We continued on to Waikamoi Preserve operated by the Nature Conservancy. With special permission, we were one of the first groups to be allowed access to this important reserve. During our orientation to the reserve we saw our first of many endemic Alauahio (Maui Creeper).
In the forest, were plenty of I’iwi, Apapane and Alauahio and we heard Japanese Bush Warblers, but focused our efforts on the difficult Akohekohe (Crested Honeycreeper), and the exceptionally rare Maui Parrotbill. Late in the morning, we spotted the first Maui Parrotbill a few yards up from the observation platform. An hour later, the bird showed again. It sat and preened for long enough for more of us to get views. Then an Akohekohe flew in and perched briefly to the delight of those in the right spot.
We headed up the long winding road to the Haleakala National Park entrance gate where two Nenes were showing well next to the road. We continued on to Waikamoi Preserve operated by the Nature Conservancy. With special permission, we were one of the first groups to be allowed access to this important reserve. During our orientation to the reserve we saw our first of many endemic Alauahio (Maui Creeper).
In the forest, were plenty of I’iwi, Apapane and Alauahio and we heard Japanese Bush Warblers, but focused our efforts on the difficult Akohekohe (Crested Honeycreeper), and the exceptionally rare Maui Parrotbill. Late in the morning, we spotted the first Maui Parrotbill a few yards up from the observation platform. An hour later, the bird showed again. It sat and preened for long enough for more of us to get views. Then an Akohekohe flew in and perched briefly to the delight of those in the right spot.
Day 9 Monday, April 6, 2009
This morning, we took a flight to Kauai, the “Garden Island”, and the oldest of the main islands. On arrival we went directly to our hotel across from the beach and settled into our rooms. After lunch, we drove to the north coast of the island to visit Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge.
This morning, we took a flight to Kauai, the “Garden Island”, and the oldest of the main islands. On arrival we went directly to our hotel across from the beach and settled into our rooms. After lunch, we drove to the north coast of the island to visit Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge.
Nenes greeted us at the entrance gate and as we walked up to the lighthouse we noted the hillside full of Red-footed Boobies on nests overlooking the sea.
Further on, we spotted several Laysan Albatrosses displaying and a large fluffy chick near a fence in the background. Several Red-tailed Tropicbirds were also flying near the cliff top and a Wedge-tailed Shearwater was sitting at the opening of a burrow inches from where we were standing.
In the bay were several Spinner Dolphins, some Humpback Whales, and a couple of Pacific Green Sea Turtles floating near the surface. Brown Boobies and Great Frigatebirds were about and the whole scene was magical.
Late in the afternoon, we found a Laysan Albatross chick on the ground in a lot between two houses. Though it looked vulnerable, there were signs posted informing people that the chick was being tended to by its parents, to leave it alone and keep domestic animals under control. It was a sight unlikely anywhere else.
Nene
Further on, we spotted several Laysan Albatrosses displaying and a large fluffy chick near a fence in the background. Several Red-tailed Tropicbirds were also flying near the cliff top and a Wedge-tailed Shearwater was sitting at the opening of a burrow inches from where we were standing.
In the bay were several Spinner Dolphins, some Humpback Whales, and a couple of Pacific Green Sea Turtles floating near the surface. Brown Boobies and Great Frigatebirds were about and the whole scene was magical.
Late in the afternoon, we found a Laysan Albatross chick on the ground in a lot between two houses. Though it looked vulnerable, there were signs posted informing people that the chick was being tended to by its parents, to leave it alone and keep domestic animals under control. It was a sight unlikely anywhere else.
Day 10 Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Today we embarked on a pelagic trip in the offshore waters of Kauai. Wedge-tailed Shearwaters were the first and most common birds seen. We also had views of Great Frigatebirds, Red-footedBooby, Brown Booby, White-tailed Tropicbird, Laysan Albatross, and Sooty Shearwater. A couple of Rough-toothed Dolphins showed briefly before we encountered a “bird pile” which included Brown Noddies and a Black Noddy.
A Humpback Whale surfaced not far off. As we were watching, it a Black-footed Albatross appeared. There were a few Sooty Terns, a Gray-backed Tern, and a small flock of Gray Phalaropes. Some smaller, dark shearwaters were identified as Christmas Shearwaters and we had a close encounter with a Hammerhead Shark.
After lunch and a short break, we went out to the lighthouse to sea watch. There were lots of Boobies, Wedgies, and Humpback blows but most were too distant for good views. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped for some good looks at Koloa (Hawaiian Ducks) in a pond next to a golf course.
Today we embarked on a pelagic trip in the offshore waters of Kauai. Wedge-tailed Shearwaters were the first and most common birds seen. We also had views of Great Frigatebirds, Red-footedBooby, Brown Booby, White-tailed Tropicbird, Laysan Albatross, and Sooty Shearwater. A couple of Rough-toothed Dolphins showed briefly before we encountered a “bird pile” which included Brown Noddies and a Black Noddy.
A Humpback Whale surfaced not far off. As we were watching, it a Black-footed Albatross appeared. There were a few Sooty Terns, a Gray-backed Tern, and a small flock of Gray Phalaropes. Some smaller, dark shearwaters were identified as Christmas Shearwaters and we had a close encounter with a Hammerhead Shark.
After lunch and a short break, we went out to the lighthouse to sea watch. There were lots of Boobies, Wedgies, and Humpback blows but most were too distant for good views. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped for some good looks at Koloa (Hawaiian Ducks) in a pond next to a golf course.
Day 11 Wednesday, April 8, 2009
This morning we were out early heading for the lush forests on the mountains of west Kauai, home to some of Kauai’s endemic forest birds. As we ascended the Canyon Road, we had sunlit views of Waimea Canyon, described by Mark Twain as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
We continued to a trailhead into the Alakai Wilderness. There were many Japanese White-eyes around, as well as Apapane, I’iwi and an Anianiau was heard. White-rumped Shama was also seen. A few hearty souls hiked up a stream, but all that was about was a Puaiohi (Small Hawaiian Thrush) that flew over too quickly to see well.
After lunch at a local lodge, we checked some viewpoints and saw Japanese White-eyes, I’iwis, Apapanes, and a female Anianiau . On the way down we took in more views of Waimea Canyon and some of us got another look at a Pueo, an endemic subspecies of Short-eared Owl.
This morning we were out early heading for the lush forests on the mountains of west Kauai, home to some of Kauai’s endemic forest birds. As we ascended the Canyon Road, we had sunlit views of Waimea Canyon, described by Mark Twain as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
White-rumped Shama
We continued to a trailhead into the Alakai Wilderness. There were many Japanese White-eyes around, as well as Apapane, I’iwi and an Anianiau was heard. White-rumped Shama was also seen. A few hearty souls hiked up a stream, but all that was about was a Puaiohi (Small Hawaiian Thrush) that flew over too quickly to see well.
After lunch at a local lodge, we checked some viewpoints and saw Japanese White-eyes, I’iwis, Apapanes, and a female Anianiau . On the way down we took in more views of Waimea Canyon and some of us got another look at a Pueo, an endemic subspecies of Short-eared Owl.
Day 12 Thursday, April 9, 2009
This morning, half the group were up very early to set off into the mountains where they were to undertake a long, difficult hike in search of several very rare and endangered species. The other half of our group remained behind before venturing off to explore the northern side of the island.
Those of us on the hike found a family of two adults and a juvenile Akikiki (Kauai Creeper), a critically endangered Kauai endemic. Nearby a male Anianiau called and we soon got superb looks at this little gem too.
One of the hardest birds to find then called and we were on the hunt for the Puaiohi (Small Kauai Thrush), an inhabitant of the most remote rocky plateaus and one of Kauai’s most critically endangered species. The bird could not be found, but we staked out an area in which we could view several directions and sat andwaited. Soon we were joined by Kauai Elepaio, a male Anianiau, Apapane, and right in front of some of us a stunning male Akekee. A sudden movement drew my attentionand there it was: the rarely seen Puaiohi. Within a few seconds all of us were watching this fantastic bird.
Leaving the mountains we made our way to the coast and drove to an area of pools and ponds, where we noted Hawaiian Stilts, Turnstones, Wandering Tattler, Common Moorhens and the endemic Hawaiian Coot. In the scrub and bushes were Japanese White-eyes, Northern Mockingbird, Red-crested Cardinal, House Finch, Scaly-breasted Munias and a calling Black Francolin.
The other group had a more relaxing day visiting Limahuli Botanical Garden and checking beaches for seabirds. There were several Laysan Albatross around and the chick we had seen a few days ago was sitting up an in better view than before. The Red-billed Tropicbirds were doing their courtship flights and a few Great Frigatebirds were patrolling the cliffs. On the way back toward Lihue, we had a Western Meadowlark fly across the road. Our last stop was an arboretum where we could hear a Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush in the forest. Our last evening was spent at our favorite Italian restaurant, a very nice way to end our Hawaiian adventure.
This morning, half the group were up very early to set off into the mountains where they were to undertake a long, difficult hike in search of several very rare and endangered species. The other half of our group remained behind before venturing off to explore the northern side of the island.
Those of us on the hike found a family of two adults and a juvenile Akikiki (Kauai Creeper), a critically endangered Kauai endemic. Nearby a male Anianiau called and we soon got superb looks at this little gem too.
One of the hardest birds to find then called and we were on the hunt for the Puaiohi (Small Kauai Thrush), an inhabitant of the most remote rocky plateaus and one of Kauai’s most critically endangered species. The bird could not be found, but we staked out an area in which we could view several directions and sat andwaited. Soon we were joined by Kauai Elepaio, a male Anianiau, Apapane, and right in front of some of us a stunning male Akekee. A sudden movement drew my attentionand there it was: the rarely seen Puaiohi. Within a few seconds all of us were watching this fantastic bird.
Leaving the mountains we made our way to the coast and drove to an area of pools and ponds, where we noted Hawaiian Stilts, Turnstones, Wandering Tattler, Common Moorhens and the endemic Hawaiian Coot. In the scrub and bushes were Japanese White-eyes, Northern Mockingbird, Red-crested Cardinal, House Finch, Scaly-breasted Munias and a calling Black Francolin.
The other group had a more relaxing day visiting Limahuli Botanical Garden and checking beaches for seabirds. There were several Laysan Albatross around and the chick we had seen a few days ago was sitting up an in better view than before. The Red-billed Tropicbirds were doing their courtship flights and a few Great Frigatebirds were patrolling the cliffs. On the way back toward Lihue, we had a Western Meadowlark fly across the road. Our last stop was an arboretum where we could hear a Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush in the forest. Our last evening was spent at our favorite Italian restaurant, a very nice way to end our Hawaiian adventure.
Day 13 Friday, April 10, 2009
This morning we set off early to the airport where we said our goodbyes to David, our expert local guide who knows the islands’ birds probably better than anyone else. Our group as a whole had managed to see every available endemic bird species. A lot of the endemics required patience, hard work or both, but with David’s determination and perseverance, the tour was 100% successful.
This morning we set off early to the airport where we said our goodbyes to David, our expert local guide who knows the islands’ birds probably better than anyone else. Our group as a whole had managed to see every available endemic bird species. A lot of the endemics required patience, hard work or both, but with David’s determination and perseverance, the tour was 100% successful.
Click here to download a full list of species seen on the tour.
Photo credits: Elepaio, Eike Wulfmeyer, Keauhou Bird Conservation Center; Apapane, “Footwarrior”; White-rumped Shama, Tricia Shears;