PROSPECTING IN HONDURAS
A travel diary of a prospecting trip to what looks to be an under-appreciated birding and eco-tourism area.
Days: 1
We departed at 6:30 AM for an area that is jointly owned by the University in Ceiba and Pico Bonito National Park—about 6000 acres of primary rainforest at the base of the mountains. We were able to see a number of interesting butterflies, but the bird life was pretty quiet. Our favorite ‘spots’ were a Morpho Cypris, a rare and beautiful butterfly, and the Giant Dragonfly with it’s four appendages that terminate at brilliant metallic blue markings with white bands at the outer edge. I’ve never seen any dragonfly remotely like it.
According to our guide, all the hawk-eagles as well as Solitary Eagle have been seen there frequently, but no one, not even vultures, were out today.
We did see a family of Passerini’s Tanagers, Thick-billed Seedeater, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Blue-grass Grassquits, numerous Keel-billed Toucans, and a Collared Aracari mobbed by a pair of Boat-billed Flycatchers as it was trying to predate their nest. The afternoon brought a violent thunder-and-lightning storm that shook the cabin at times. It was accompanied by torrential rain. It was certainly due since the last two days have been humid to the extreme.
Passerini’s Tanager (Marianne Phillips)
According to our guide, all the hawk-eagles as well as Solitary Eagle have been seen there frequently, but no one, not even vultures, were out today.
We did see a family of Passerini’s Tanagers, Thick-billed Seedeater, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Blue-grass Grassquits, numerous Keel-billed Toucans, and a Collared Aracari mobbed by a pair of Boat-billed Flycatchers as it was trying to predate their nest. The afternoon brought a violent thunder-and-lightning storm that shook the cabin at times. It was accompanied by torrential rain. It was certainly due since the last two days have been humid to the extreme.
2
We left at 6:30 AM for Cayos Marine Sanctuary and some snorkeling. We drove for about 40 minutes to Sambo Village, a Garofono native village. A local took us by boat another 45 minutes to the sanctuary, which encompasses about 300 square km and a number of cays. The snorkeling was excellent. The water was clear, the seas were calm, and the coral reefs were teaming with fish. We had a very nice lunch at a Garifuna native village of about 200 on one of the smallest cays. We had whole, pan-fried fish, with rice and beans. It was very good, and the village was quite charming.
Unfortunately, the night walk was rained out shortly after we departed, the second night in a row that it didn’t work. We’ll have to try to it sooner on our next trip.
Unfortunately, the night walk was rained out shortly after we departed, the second night in a row that it didn’t work. We’ll have to try to it sooner on our next trip.
We flew into San Pedro Sula with the goal of sampling what Pico Bonito Lodge had to offer, although it is not the best time of year, being the rainy season. We arrived in an oasis of lush plantings and rainforest with birds everywhere. From the deck of our nicely-appointed, air-conditioned cabin, we quickly spotted a Great Potoo in a tree, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl eyeing us suspiciously, and countless Keel-billed Toucans, Collared Aracaris, and Montezuma Oropendulas. White-crowned Parrots and Olive-throated Parakeets were abundant and noisy. Along the paths to the dining area, Agoutis were quite fearless, and lizards of numerous kinds scurried about.
We flew into San Pedro Sula with the goal of sampling what Pico Bonito Lodge had to offer, although it is not the best time of year, being the rainy season. We arrived in an oasis of lush plantings and rainforest with birds everywhere. From the deck of our nicely-appointed, air-conditioned cabin, we quickly spotted a Great Potoo in a tree, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl eyeing us suspiciously, and countless Keel-billed Toucans, Collared Aracaris, and Montezuma Oropendulas. White-crowned Parrots and Olive-throated Parakeets were abundant and noisy. Along the paths to the dining area, Agoutis were quite fearless, and lizards of numerous kinds scurried about.
At breakfast, we saw our first Squirrel Cuckoo of the trip, right in front of us. We packed and left for Copan at 8:30 AM. It seemed like we were at Pico much less than a week because we were so busy all the time. The staff was excellent, the birds and excursions were great, the food was good, and, all-in-all, it was a great week! We definitely expect to offer a trip here in the in the next year of so.
We arrived at Hacienda San Lucas late in the afternoon after a long drive, made longer by the fact that our vehicle was running poorly, apparently with a clogged propane filter. The driver finally switched back to regular gas, and it ran better, but still took us hours to get to Copan. The Hacienda is quite unique, at least 100 years old. The rooms are basic and, it this time of year, pretty warm because of humidity. They have ceiling fans, but they’re not really enough to offset the heat. According to the owner and our bird guide, it’s much more pleasant from December through February, when we would likely offer a tour. We did quickly see our first White-throated Magpie-Jay while have drinks on the porch. We arranged for a visit to the Copan ruins for the next morning.
Copan Town (Marianne Phillips)
We arrived at Hacienda San Lucas late in the afternoon after a long drive, made longer by the fact that our vehicle was running poorly, apparently with a clogged propane filter. The driver finally switched back to regular gas, and it ran better, but still took us hours to get to Copan. The Hacienda is quite unique, at least 100 years old. The rooms are basic and, it this time of year, pretty warm because of humidity. They have ceiling fans, but they’re not really enough to offset the heat. According to the owner and our bird guide, it’s much more pleasant from December through February, when we would likely offer a tour. We did quickly see our first White-throated Magpie-Jay while have drinks on the porch. We arranged for a visit to the Copan ruins for the next morning.
We met our guide, Jose, at 6:00 AM and headed to the tower for some birding. The view is pretty spectacular. White-crowned Parrots flew over several times. We were able to scope Chestnut-headed Oropendolas and Masked Tityra. One of the signature birds of Pico Bonito, the Lovely Cotinga, perched up for a marvelous scope view.
White-crowned Parrot (Marianne Phillips)
After an hour or so we walked the grounds and quickly found a cooperative Blue-crowned Motmot and another Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. A family of Keel-billed Toucans gave us nice looks at the juveniles. Other birds included Red-legged Honeycreeper, Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Lesser Greenlet, White-collared Manikin, and Ivory-billed Woodcreeper in an active mixed flock. Black-headed Trogon was calling and we located one on the grounds. We returned about 10:00 AM for a full breakfast.
Next, we went off to the Serpentarium and Butterfly Farm just up the road. Among the interesting creatures there were a family of stunning Tropical Rattlesnakes, an 8 foot Fer de Lance, a pair of Eye-lash Vipers, a moccasin of some sort, though unlike anything we have seen before, and a Jumping Viper, Boas and Parrot Snakes. Birds in the afternoon included Black-crowned Tityra, heard Turquoise-browed Motmot, Olive-throated Parakeets, Red-throated Ant-Tanagers.
7
We met our guide, Jose, at 6:00 AM and headed to the tower for some birding. The view is pretty spectacular. White-crowned Parrots flew over several times. We were able to scope Chestnut-headed Oropendolas and Masked Tityra. One of the signature birds of Pico Bonito, the Lovely Cotinga, perched up for a marvelous scope view.
After an hour or so we walked the grounds and quickly found a cooperative Blue-crowned Motmot and another Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. A family of Keel-billed Toucans gave us nice looks at the juveniles. Other birds included Red-legged Honeycreeper, Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Lesser Greenlet, White-collared Manikin, and Ivory-billed Woodcreeper in an active mixed flock. Black-headed Trogon was calling and we located one on the grounds. We returned about 10:00 AM for a full breakfast.
Next, we went off to the Serpentarium and Butterfly Farm just up the road. Among the interesting creatures there were a family of stunning Tropical Rattlesnakes, an 8 foot Fer de Lance, a pair of Eye-lash Vipers, a moccasin of some sort, though unlike anything we have seen before, and a Jumping Viper, Boas and Parrot Snakes. Birds in the afternoon included Black-crowned Tityra, heard Turquoise-browed Motmot, Olive-throated Parakeets, Red-throated Ant-Tanagers.
White-crowned Parrot (Marianne Phillips)
After an hour or so we walked the grounds and quickly found a cooperative Blue-crowned Motmot and another Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. A family of Keel-billed Toucans gave us nice looks at the juveniles. Other birds included Red-legged Honeycreeper, Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Lesser Greenlet, White-collared Manikin, and Ivory-billed Woodcreeper in an active mixed flock. Black-headed Trogon was calling and we located one on the grounds. We returned about 10:00 AM for a full breakfast.
Next, we went off to the Serpentarium and Butterfly Farm just up the road. Among the interesting creatures there were a family of stunning Tropical Rattlesnakes, an 8 foot Fer de Lance, a pair of Eye-lash Vipers, a moccasin of some sort, though unlike anything we have seen before, and a Jumping Viper, Boas and Parrot Snakes. Birds in the afternoon included Black-crowned Tityra, heard Turquoise-browed Motmot, Olive-throated Parakeets, Red-throated Ant-Tanagers.
Day 1
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We met with our bird guide, Alex, and made a plan for the next day to bird the highlands. He also invited us to the Macaw Mountain, a rehab facility for parrots, macaws and other wildlife. We left for the Mayan ruins at 9:00 AM and met our knowledgeable guide there, Oscar. The ruins were impressive and there were a number of very well-preserved Stellas, better than I’ve seen at other ruins. There were a few birds around: most notable, our first Spot-breasted Orioles of the trip. Also, Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, Yellow-throated Euphonia, Masked Tityra, and Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl.
In the afternoon, we grabbed a “tuk-tuk” (a little motorized four-person vehicle), and headed to Macaw Mountain. The facilities were quite exceptional, and they were engaged in a number of captive breeding programs including Great Green and Scarlet Macaw. Alex is knowledgeable and very involved in the programs. We arranged to meet with him the next morning at 5:00 AM for a birding trip.
Scarlet Macaw (Marianne Phillips)
In the afternoon, we grabbed a “tuk-tuk” (a little motorized four-person vehicle), and headed to Macaw Mountain. The facilities were quite exceptional, and they were engaged in a number of captive breeding programs including Great Green and Scarlet Macaw. Alex is knowledgeable and very involved in the programs. We arranged to meet with him the next morning at 5:00 AM for a birding trip.
4
We met Alex at 5:00 AM and headed for higher elevations. We started in a more agricultural area and walked up into mixed pine and tropical forest. Our target bird was Bushy-crested Jay. We kept hearing flocks of them, and finally we were able to track down a couple and get good looks. Birds were somewhat sparse as they had been throughout much of our trip due to the season. No one establishing territories, no breeding activity. We did encounter a number of juveniles of various species, an ID challenge at times. We had close looks at Golden-Olive Woodpeckers, Boat-billed Flycatcher, numerous Rusty Sparrows, Rufous-breasted Spinetail, and Plain Wren. We were very impressed by Alex and his birding skills. He had won a Central American competition the year before for native birders requiring ID by ear. He received a nice pair of binoculars as first prize. His English is very good, and he is a knowledgeable general naturalist as well, especially interested in plants and reptiles. In addition, he’s personable and very enthusiastic. I expect we will utilize him on any future trips to Honduras.
Our bird walk ended about noon, high in the mountains at a new spa. It was rustic, but quite charming, and the owners have spent considerable time encouraging native plants. Their orchids were especially impressive. We returned to the lodge for lunch, then went to town to do some shopping. We were able to see a nice collection of turn-of-the-century pictures showing early archeologists at work in the Copan ruins. The pictures were on loan from Peabody Museam at Harvard. We most enjoyed the picture of the original American manager at the Copan excavations, who hosted a group of Honduran notables, got drunk and disorderly that night, then refused to serve them breakfast. Not surprisingly, he was dispatched from said position the next day!
As usual, we had a big rainstorm around dinner time, though not as intense as the previous two days. We were going to another location for owling with Alex, but decided to stay close and see what we could find. It was very quiet in the light drizzle, but a nice night walk. We heard Mottled Owl and saw one fly by, but couldn’t get any to sit. No other owls were responding; not a surprise, given the rain.
Golden-olive Woodpecker (Marianne Phillips)
Our bird walk ended about noon, high in the mountains at a new spa. It was rustic, but quite charming, and the owners have spent considerable time encouraging native plants. Their orchids were especially impressive. We returned to the lodge for lunch, then went to town to do some shopping. We were able to see a nice collection of turn-of-the-century pictures showing early archeologists at work in the Copan ruins. The pictures were on loan from Peabody Museam at Harvard. We most enjoyed the picture of the original American manager at the Copan excavations, who hosted a group of Honduran notables, got drunk and disorderly that night, then refused to serve them breakfast. Not surprisingly, he was dispatched from said position the next day!
As usual, we had a big rainstorm around dinner time, though not as intense as the previous two days. We were going to another location for owling with Alex, but decided to stay close and see what we could find. It was very quiet in the light drizzle, but a nice night walk. We heard Mottled Owl and saw one fly by, but couldn’t get any to sit. No other owls were responding; not a surprise, given the rain.
5
Off bright and early for the 3½ hour drive back to San Pedro airport and our flight home. Everything was on schedule. Just a long travel day.
The trip was enjoyable, and Honduras shows excellent potential for birding tours. We did not have the time to get to Lake Ojoa areas or La Tigre National Park, both known for many highly-desirable species, including Resplendent Quetzal, Black-throated Jay, Blue-throated Motmot, and Slate-colored Solitaire. Honduras retains good-sized tracts of cloud-forest, and it’s definitely an under-birded areas with only a couple of the major groups offering tours. Ecotours infrastructure is good to excellent, and more Hondurans are engaging in ecotours activities.
We will probably offer this tour sometime next year, perhaps in December or January when the weather conditions are drier and cooler. We were also really impressed with the diversity of butterflies, moths, lizards, and flowers (especially orchids). There were many butterflies we could not identify, especially after a group of the entomologists from University of Florida staying at Pico Bonito departed. Their leader, associate curator of the university’s butterfly collection, considers Honduras to be one of the world’s premier butterfly destinations.
The trip was enjoyable, and Honduras shows excellent potential for birding tours. We did not have the time to get to Lake Ojoa areas or La Tigre National Park, both known for many highly-desirable species, including Resplendent Quetzal, Black-throated Jay, Blue-throated Motmot, and Slate-colored Solitaire. Honduras retains good-sized tracts of cloud-forest, and it’s definitely an under-birded areas with only a couple of the major groups offering tours. Ecotours infrastructure is good to excellent, and more Hondurans are engaging in ecotours activities.
We will probably offer this tour sometime next year, perhaps in December or January when the weather conditions are drier and cooler. We were also really impressed with the diversity of butterflies, moths, lizards, and flowers (especially orchids). There were many butterflies we could not identify, especially after a group of the entomologists from University of Florida staying at Pico Bonito departed. Their leader, associate curator of the university’s butterfly collection, considers Honduras to be one of the world’s premier butterfly destinations.
6
10The Cuero and Salado Refuge is formed by the convergence of the Cuero and Salado Rivers, both emerging from the Pico Bonito Mountains and ending in the Caribbean. Getting there was part of the adventure. We drove into town and boarded a tiny “train” that consisted of a couple of small open cars powered by a small gas engine. We proceed down narrow gauge tracks for about 10 miles until we reached the refuge entrance on the coast. The habitat along the train tracks was open and wet. We saw a number of Northern Jacanas along the way as well as two Bare-throated Tiger-Heron and an Amazon Kingfisher. White-collared Seedeaters and Blue-black Grassquits were abundant as well. We were delighted by a jacana with several new born chicks.
Boat-billed Heron (Marianne Phillips)
Arriving at the refuge, we boarded a small boat with an outboard and proceeded upriver. Much of the vegetation was red mangrove. We were able to motor back into a couple of side creeks. We got our first Boat-billed Heron sitting quite close and loudly complaining about our presence. We quickly found Green and Ringed Kingfishers. A pair of Slaty Antwrens performed nicely for us. We were surprised to find a Gray-headed Kite perched up just inside the mangroves. I’ve seen several in flight, but never one perching. We also found a co-operative Scaled Pigeon, a small family of Black Howler Monkeys, and a new mammal for both of us: White-faced “Capuchin” Monkey. Next we found a very large Central American Black Turtle sunning itself on a log.
Finally, we motored to the mouth of the river a short distance away where numerous species of terns were working: Least, Sandwich, Black, Royal, Common among them. Wilson’s Plovers were abundant and we got a glimpse of a Collared Plover before it disappeared over a sand dune.
11
The Cuero and Salado Refuge is formed by the convergence of the Cuero and Salado Rivers, both emerging from the Pico Bonito Mountains and ending in the Caribbean. Getting there was part of the adventure. We drove into town and boarded a tiny “train” that consisted of a couple of small open cars powered by a small gas engine. We proceed down narrow gauge tracks for about 10 miles until we reached the refuge entrance on the coast. The habitat along the train tracks was open and wet. We saw a number of Northern Jacanas along the way as well as two Bare-throated Tiger-Heron and an Amazon Kingfisher. White-collared Seedeaters and Blue-black Grassquits were abundant as well. We were delighted by a jacana with several new born chicks.
Arriving at the refuge, we boarded a small boat with an outboard and proceeded upriver. Much of the vegetation was red mangrove. We were able to motor back into a couple of side creeks. We got our first Boat-billed Heron sitting quite close and loudly complaining about our presence. We quickly found Green and Ringed Kingfishers. A pair of Slaty Antwrens performed nicely for us. We were surprised to find a Gray-headed Kite perched up just inside the mangroves. I’ve seen several in flight, but never one perching. We also found a co-operative Scaled Pigeon, a small family of Black Howler Monkeys, and a new mammal for both of us: White-faced “Capuchin” Monkey. Next we found a very large Central American Black Turtle sunning itself on a log.
Finally, we motored to the mouth of the river a short distance away where numerous species of terns were working: Least, Sandwich, Black, Royal, Common among them. Wilson’s Plovers were abundant and we got a glimpse of a Collared Plover before it disappeared over a sand dune.
Boat-billed Heron (Marianne Phillips)
Finally, we motored to the mouth of the river a short distance away where numerous species of terns were working: Least, Sandwich, Black, Royal, Common among them. Wilson’s Plovers were abundant and we got a glimpse of a Collared Plover before it disappeared over a sand dune.
